Hvar, Croatia is my favorite!
We left the turquoise waters of Bol with an easy ferry ride to (surprise) more turquoise & blue waters of Hvar Town on the island of Hvar. We immediately fell in love. Every single one of us.
Hvar views from the Spanish Fortress
Our Airbnb sat tucked beneath the Spanish Fortress, which sounded dreamy... until we had to haul our asses up what felt like a million narrow stone steps in the blazing afternoon sun. To make things even better, Google Maps gave up about a block before our actual apartment which left us messaging our hose โwhere the f are you?โ. We were hot, sweaty, carrying our backpacks, and just inches away a meltdown. Thankfully, we eventually found it.
A sweet older woman welcomed us in, proudly showed us around (like, reallly showed us around) and even demonstrated how to use the dishwasher. Once we politely shooed her out, we stepped onto the balcony and completely forgot about getting lost there for a minute. The view over Hvar's terracotta rooftops, harbor, and fortress was unbelievable. We felt absolutely spoiled.
Hvar Town is often considered one of Croatia's most beautiful destinations. Built around a picturesque harbor, it's known for its Venetian architecture, marble streets, historic squares, and the hilltop Spanish Fortress watching over it all. There are no cars weaving through the old town. Just winding cobblestone lanes, stone homes, hidden restaurants, little gelato shops, and endless staircases.
The boys had their own reason to celebrate! The TV was a smart TV...and it had YouTube. Views for the parents, YouTube for the kids. Everyone wins!
That afternoon we wandered down into town, stopping at Studenac, Croatia's grocery store chain, to stock up. Believe it or not, we hardly eat out while traveling. Cooking simple meals (lots of pasta! lots of salami, meat, and cheses!) and grabbing groceries instead of restaurant meals is one of the biggest reasons we're able to stretch our family adventures into longer summer trips.
We continued wandering through Hvar's charming streets until we reached the cemetery on the opposite side of town. From there we had another incredible perspective back toward the fortress overlooking the harbor.
But somewhere during that evening, something felt off. None of us could quite explain it. Eventually, it ended in tears. Even mine. As the sun set, the four of us sat together on the steps in the main square and had one of the most honest conversations we've ever shared as a family. Our style of travel was changing.
The boys were growing up. They missed friends. Chip and I missed home, Clover, and our community in Durango. We wondered if everyone was still enjoying these long adventures together. Was this the last summer we'd travel like this? By the end of that conversation, we realized something important.
Maybe the trip didn't need to look the same anymore. Instead of forcing everyone to do everything together, we'd create more freedom. The boys could occasionally do their own thing. Chip and I could sneak away for dates while they happily watched YouTube. We didn't need to check every attraction off a list just because it was there. We'd travel for who we are now, not who we were three years ago.
The next morning, we put that new philosophy into practice. While Chip and the boys enjoyed a slow morning, I walked up to the Spanish Fortress alone. Since our Airbnb sat just below it, the entrance was only a short climb away.
The Spanish Fortress, also known as Fortica, dates back to the 16th century, although earlier fortifications stood on the same hill centuries before. Today it offers sweeping panoramic views over Hvar Town, the harbor, and the Pakleni Islands. I wandered the old stone walls, admired the views, and soaked up the quiet. It was exactly what I needed. When I returned, everyone else was ready for the beach...without me convincing them!
We walked past the Franciscan Monastery to Banje Beach, where the crystal-clear water looked almost too blue to be real. Nearby we found a small inflatable aquapark. Our credit card wouldn't work, and we only had enough cash for two people, but the owner smiled and let me, Reid, and Bennett all go anyway while Chip relaxed on shore.
Afterward we continued strolling along the waterfront, stopped at Studenac for ramen, junk food, and Schweppes, then dropped the boys back at the apartment for some YouTube time.
Hvar views
For Chip and I this meant date night!
We wandered through town, split a focaccia sandwich, then treated ourselves at a Michelin-recognized restaurant. We shared lobster bisque, truffle soup, a Greek salad, and a glass of wine. It was totally what we needed When we returned home, the boys were (SO) happy. AND THE SAME FOR US!
Everyone had spent the day exactly how they wanted, and somehow we all enjoyed being together even more because of it.
Michelin-recognized restaurant (on a budget!)
That evening we took one final stroll through Hvar. The stone buildings glowed in the fading light, the fortress stood proudly above the harbor, and yachts begam piling up on the dock for the night. It may honestly be one of the most beautiful places I've ever visited.
Like all of Croatia we've seen so far, it is clean, charming, and timeless. The kind of place that stays with you long after you've left. Originally we'd planned to spend only a few hours here on a day trip. Adding two nights turned out to be one of the best decisions of the trip.
But, we weren't done yet! Hvar had one more surprise waiting for us. As the sun disappeared, dark clouds rolled over the Adriatic. Before long, lightning began dancing across the horizon. Not just a flash here and there but an entire line of lightning stretching from the sky straight down into the sea. We'd never seen anything like it. Eventually the storm drifted away, and we figured the show was over.
Then, sometime around midnight, we were jolted awake by the loudest crack of thunder any of us had ever heard. My heart was pounding as I whispered to Chip, "What was that?"
"I think we either got struck by lightning," he said, "or something right next to us did."
At first I thought he was kidding but he wasn't.
The next morning we learned just how intense the storm had been. Photos from the mainland showed the massive lightning storm stretching across Hvar and the Adriatic Sea. But it's still a mystery as to what got struck!
Between the unforgettable views, the honest family conversations, our little date night, and one unforgettable Adriatic thunderstorm, Hvar gave us memories we'll be talking about for years.
Next stop: Korฤula, often called "Little Dubrovnik." Another ferry, another island, more blue water, more adventure!