Three Days on Lake Garda: Desenzano del Garda & Sirmione

*Can you spot Reid, Bennett, and I among all the colorful umbrellas and sunbathing people?! Lake Garda, Italy*

Some places instantly slow you down—in the best possible way. After two sun-soaked weeks on the Basque coast of France, we were excited for a new adventure. When a spontaneous 30-euro flight carried us from Biarritz to northern Italy, we followed the pull without overthinking it. Lake Garda became our first taste of Italy as a family, and it turned out to be the perfect place to land: blue water, charming towns, ferry rides, and just enough adventure woven into long, lingering days by the lake.

We had just wrapped up two incredible weeks in Biarritz, much of it spent soaking up time with Chip’s parents, when it was finally time to say goodbye—to them and to France—as we set off on our own adventure as a family of four. Being back on the Basque coast felt surreal, like reuniting with an old friend. When you travel so far from home, you rarely imagine you’ll get the chance to return, which makes coming back to a place you’ve loved all the more meaningful. Somehow, Biarritz felt even more beautiful than we remembered. It remains, without question, the most stunning coastal town we’ve ever laid eyes on.

On to Something new

But eventually, the itch for something new kicked in. When we spotted plane tickets back home during our planning period, Biarritz to Italy for only 30 euros, we looked at each other and said, why the hell not?

And just like that, our summer adventure continued—now in Italy, a country the boys and I had yet to explore.

We landed at Bergamo Airport right at sunset, and before we even touched down, we were already blown away by the scenery from above. That first glimpse of Italy felt cinematic. We stayed just one night nearby in the most unexpected place: a converted silo we found on Airbnb. Three beds, beautifully designed, and perfect for a quick reset—shower, sleep, and onward.

The next morning, we stopped at a huge local grocery store (one of my favorite things to do in a new country), grabbed food for the day, and set off on a thirty-minute walk to the train station. Thankfully, we always pack light—just one backpack each—because it was already warm and humid. When we reached the small station, signage was minimal, and we had a brief moment of are we on the right side of the tracks?

Turns out we were.

Lake Garda, Here We Come!

We boarded the train and made our way toward Lake Garda, where we’d be staying for three nights in Desenzano del Garda. The journey was smooth, and once we arrived, we walked the mile downhill toward town and our Airbnb. The first views of the lake from above were stunning—blue water, mountains in the distance, and that unmistakable Italian charm. By the time we reached the center of town, it already felt special.

Our Airbnb sat right in the heart of it all, on a pedestrian street buzzing with life—restaurants, shops, people strolling slowly with gelato in hand.

Hot and tired from travel, we did the only thing that made sense: threw on our swimsuits and headed straight to the beach.

Desenzano del Garda is one of the liveliest towns on Lake Garda and a perfect home base. It has a relaxed but vibrant feel, a historic harbor, and easy ferry connections to towns all around the lake. The main swimming area, Spiaggia Desenzanino, is a casual lakeside beach with grassy and pebbled areas, clear water, and plenty of locals lounging with towels, snacks, and wine—very much our kind of scene.

The water was shockingly refreshing. At first, I thought there was no way I was getting in—it was cold—but once we did, it was exactly what we needed. We swam, dipped, cooled off, warmed up, and repeated. With how laid-back it was, we wandered to a nearby market, grabbed snacks and a bottle of wine, and settled in for the afternoon. The lake was the most unreal shade of blue.

*Views of Lake Garda from Desenzano del Garda, Italy*

*The pebble stone beach in Desenzano del Garda*

A Ferry Ride to Castello Scaligero

The next day, Bennett and I were up early for a little adventure of our own. Chip and Reid opted to sleep in and explore Desenzano at a slower pace while we hopped on one of the ferries that crisscross Lake Garda. There were so many towns we could’ve chosen—many still on my list—but we kept coming back to Sirmione.

Sirmione sits on a narrow peninsula that stretches dramatically into Lake Garda and is one of the most iconic spots on the lake. Known for its medieval charm, thermal waters, and turquoise shoreline, it’s the kind of place that feels straight out of a postcard.

We had purchased tickets to Castello Scaligero di Sirmione a month in advance, making sure we snagged the earliest entry time. That decision paid off immediately. When we stepped inside, the castle was nearly empty.

The Scaliger Castle dates back to the 13th century and is one of the best-preserved medieval fortresses in Italy. Surrounded by water and complete with drawbridges, towers, and sweeping views of the lake, it’s easy to imagine its strategic importance centuries ago. We wandered slowly, climbed the towers, and soaked in the views—just us, stone walls, and the lake stretching endlessly in every direction.

When we exited the castle about an hour later, the scene had completely changed. Crowds were pouring in. Another good reminder to take the earliest ferry and earliest ticket—you won’t regret it.

*The castle is surrounded by water on all sides - not just any water, but vibrant turquoise water*

Jamaica Beach & Wandering Sirmione

From there, we walked toward Jamaica Beach, located at the very tip of the peninsula. It’s famous for its flat white rock slabs and shallow, crystal-clear water that really does feel Caribbean-like. We didn’t have swimsuits with us, but we kicked off our shoes and waded in anyway. The colors were unreal.

On our way back, we stopped for lunch in an air-conditioned café (a lifesaver), then spent the last hour before our ferry wandering the pedestrian streets—admiring buildings draped in pink flowering vines, cooling off with gelato cones, and popping into small artisan shops.

It was such a special day with Bennett. I really treasure those one-on-one moments with the boys during our summer travels.

*Beach time in Desenzano del Garda, Italy*

One Last Slow Day by the Lake

Our final full day brought us right back to the beach. We had planned to rent one of the small boats to cruise the lake, but they were all sold out, so we pivoted easily—another beach day it was. And honestly, it didn’t disappoint one bit.

We claimed our little patch of lakeside, surrounded by people doing exactly the same—towels laid out, snacks unpacked, drinks in hand. Our Airbnb was close enough that the boys would head back for quiet time, then return asking for euros, run to the market, and repeat the cycle. It was simple, relaxed, and perfect.

Lake Garda has so much more to explore, but as a family, we tend to move at a slower pace. I love seeing highlights, but I love even more really being somewhere—swimming, wandering, lingering. Lake Garda struck the perfect balance as our introduction to Italy.

But soon, it was time to take things up a notch.

Jaw Drops ahead…

Lake Garda surprised me in the best way. It offered just enough to explore without ever feeling rushed, and plenty of space to simply be. We swam, wandered, lingered, and let the days unfold naturally—exactly how we like to travel as a family. As our introduction to Italy, it felt gentle and grounding, easing us into a new country without overwhelming us. And while we know there’s so much more of Lake Garda still waiting for us, we were ready for what came next. With backpacks on once again, we headed north toward the mountains—trains, buses, and big views ahead—on our way to the Dolomites, where the landscape (and our jaws) would drop even further.