Seixal, Madeira: The Most Beautiful Place We Found on the Island (& Maybe Ever!)

*The boys standing on our rooftop balcony in Seixal, Madeira*

After a few lively days exploring the colorful streets, gardens, and coastline of Funchal, we were ready to slow down and experience another side of Madeira. We packed up and headed to the north coast of the island to the tiny seaside village of Seixal — a place we had heard whispers about but didn’t fully understand until we arrived. What we discovered was one of the most breathtaking landscapes we have ever experienced. Seixal sits where dramatic emerald mountains plunge straight into the Atlantic Ocean. Black sand beaches stretch beneath towering cliffs, waterfalls spill down the hillsides, and the air feels lush and alive. It’s quieter than the southern part of the island, less developed, and deeply connected to nature. Over the course of a week, we explored misty mountain forests, soared down cliffside cable cars, jumped into impossibly blue water, and wandered through volcanic landscapes that felt almost prehistoric. And in between all the adventure, we found time to simply slow down and enjoy the magic of being there. Madeira has many beautiful corners, but Seixal quickly stole our hearts.

Home Sweet Home

We were dropped at the bottom of a narrow street and climbed just a minute uphill to our home for the next week. A stone house with a red roof, wrapped in lush gardens, multiple bedrooms, an upper balcony and lower patio, and windows — every single one of them — framing the green mountains and turquoise ocean like living artwork. We ran from room to room, patio to balcony, just to see how the view changed from each angle.

Naturally, we wasted no time. Swimsuits on. Down, down, down we went — Seixal is no joke when it comes to steep streets — and in under ten minutes we were standing on that black sand beach. And once again, we were stunned.

The beach isn’t massive, but it doesn’t need to be. It has everything. Crystal-clear water, volcanic rock formations rising from the sea, towering cliffs wrapping around the bay, a waterfall cascading down the mountainside behind the beach, a dramatic rock wall perfect for exploring, a small beach restaurant, and a soft black sand just waiting for castles to be built. Now this is a beach!

*Our incredible balcony views, Seixal, Madeira*

A view from one of our Airbnb windows, Seixal, Madeira

*Morning views from our airbnb, Seixal, Madeira*

Meet Susanna: The Best Tour Guide Ever

The following day, we booked another tour with Susanna. Remember, we had met her earlier through a Get Your Guide tour that left from Funchal, and loved her immediately — her warmth, her story, and her pride in her island. Instead of booking through the platform again, we simply texted her and asked if she would take us out for another day. Thankfully, she said yes. And somehow, this day was even more spectacular than the last.

We left the coastline of Seixal and headed inland. Before long, we veered sharply up a steep mountain road, climbing quickly. The views began unfolding in layers — green terraces, scattered red-roofed homes, and deep valleys carved by time.

Susanna pulled into a small parking spot and pointed us toward a staircase. “Head up,” she said. “You will be amazed.” We climbed the stone stairs until we reached the tiny white chapel, Capelinha de Nossa Senhora de Fátima, perched quietly above the valley. And when we turned around — WOW.

*Wow, that’s all I had to say about these views*

Absolute insane views of Sao Vicente Valley, Madeira

Below us lay São Vicente, its red-tiled roofs scattered through a vibrant green valley. Terraced hillsides climbed toward jagged mountain peaks. A low band of clouds stretched across the ridgeline like a perfectly placed brushstroke. The morning light illuminated every fold of the mountains, revealing dense forests, farmland, and winding roads that curved through the valley like ribbons. I could have stood there all day.

But Madeira doesn’t let you linger too long — there is always another wonder around the bend. As we drove deeper into the mountains we were staring at only a few minutes ago, we noticed smoke rising faintly up ahead. Susanna grew quiet and serious. She explained how dangerous wildfires can be here. Madeira may look impossibly lush, but in summer it becomes dry. Because the island is defined by steep slopes, narrow roads, and deep ravines, fighting fires from the ground can be incredibly difficult. Some areas are nearly inaccessible, and crews sometimes have no choice but to let sections burn until conditions allow control.

Just weeks after our visit in 2024, Madeira experienced significant wildfires across several parts of the island. We texted Susanna during that time to check in and see how her family and community were doing. It was a devastating and anxious time for many locals. When you fall in love with a place — and its people — you feel those things differently.

After Susanna called the authorities to report what we had seen, we continued on. The road narrowed and the air cooled. We climbed higher and higher until we were swallowed by clouds. Dew formed on the car windows. It felt like we had driven into the sky itself. Then Susanna stopped again. We had arrived at Parque Florestal do Fanal.

Bennett was exhausted and stayed in the car with Susanna for a nap, but Reid, Chip, and I stepped out into the mist. And what we found felt otherworldly.

Parque Florestal do Fanal

Fanal sits high on the Paul da Serra plateau, where ancient laurel trees — some over 500 years old — twist and stretch across rolling green meadows. The forest is part of Madeira’s UNESCO-listed Laurisilva, a rare subtropical rainforest that once covered much of Southern Europe. Fog wrapped itself around the trees, softening their outlines. Gnarled branches reached sideways instead of up. Moss clung to trunks. The silence was thick and damp and magical.

Fajã dos Padres Cable Car

After descending down the opposite side of the mountain after Fanal, we had arrived on the southern coast of Madeira at the Fajã dos Padres Cable Car. Again, Susanna instructed us to go on, but this time we were going down. This may be one of the steepest cable cars in the world, dropping nearly 300 meters (about 1,000 feet) down a vertical cliff face to a tiny strip of land wedged between towering rock walls and the Atlantic Ocean. As the car tilted over the edge and began its descent, I wasn’t sure whether I was holding my breath from fear or awe. Probably both.

*Heading down the Faja dos Padres cable car, Madeira*

*The lush oasis that waits at the bottom of the cable car*

*The most beautiful turquoise water to enjoy at the bottom of Faja dos Padres cable car*

At the bottom sits Fajã dos Padres — a secluded coastal fajã accessible only by boat or cable car. For centuries it has been home to a small agricultural community, and today it still functions as a working organic plantation. We wandered through rows of banana trees, mango, avocado, papaya, and passionfruit growing in rich volcanic soil. The cliffs towered behind us, trapping the heat and creating a warm subtropical microclimate. But it was hot. So naturally, we made a beeline for the water. The beach is rocky, so we headed for the pier and started flinging ourselves into the sea — flips, spins, and dives. The water was shockingly refreshing and impossibly blue.

Eventually hunger pulled us toward the little seaside restaurant where we ate fresh food grown just steps away, staring out at the ocean before riding the steep cable car back up to meet Susanna.

Before heading back, Susanna wanted to show us one more special place — her hometown of Ponta do Sol. We felt incredibly lucky to see this little town through her eyes, the place where she grew up and where her son now lives. What an honor and what a stunning place it is.

Ponta do Sol sits along Madeira’s southwest coast and is known as one of the sunniest spots on the island — its name literally means “Point of the Sun.” Colorful homes climb the hillsides above a small pebble beach, while a graceful stone pier stretches into the Atlantic. Palm trees line the waterfront promenade, and the cliffs rising behind the town make the whole scene feel both dramatic and peaceful at the same time. As we wandered along the waterfront, Chip and I both agreed: this would be a beautiful place to live.

She drove us back to our Airbnb in Seixal where we collapsed, completely full — in every sense of the word.

Relaxing Days in Seixal

Our final days in Seixal slowed beautifully. Beach afternoons, island walks through narrow village roads, coffee on the porch overlooking the ocean, card games and chess in the evenings, and wandering down to the black sand beach whenever we felt like it.

One of the places we were excited to visit was the natural volcanic swimming pools of Piscinas Naturais do Seixal. These pools formed when ancient lava flows created natural rock basins along the shoreline, allowing calm Atlantic seawater to collect safely inside. Framed by black lava rock with the mountains rising behind them, the pools are one of the most scenic swimming spots on the island. It was a little too chilly to fully swim the day we visited, but we wandered through the rocks and waded into the clear water, soaking in the scenery.

One evening we met up with Chip’s uncle, who happened to be living on Madeira at the time. Since we were already on the north side of the island, we chose a restaurant nearby with outdoor tables and ocean views: Las Caraibas.

The food was incredible — fresh seafood, bright tropical drinks, and the kind of relaxed atmosphere that makes you linger long after the plates are cleared. When I mentioned how much I loved their colorful coasters and spoons, the owner surprised me by letting me take one home as a souvenir.

More Portugal on the way…

Madeira surprised us at every turn — towering mountains, ancient forests wrapped in fog, fertile valleys, volcanic coastlines, and water so blue it hardly looked real. The island is wildly diverse for its size, offering landscapes that change dramatically within just a short drive. But if there is one place that truly captured our hearts, it was Seixal. With its lush green cliffs, black sand beaches, waterfalls, and quiet charm, it is easily one of the most beautiful places we have ever laid eyes on.

Next up, we finish out our summer travels with one more stop - a week in Porto! This wonderfully walkable city, with its compact, easy-to-navigate layout of winding streets, riverside paths, and historic landmarks was easy to fall in love with. As an added bonus, the beach is only a ten minute drive from old town so naturally we got our surfing and beach time in.

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